![]() Just to keep my fellow photographers informed, on Android devices there is a app called DSLR controller ( ), it is a great app and I think it can do everything that the CamRanger can, it is currently in the final stages of Beta testing. The CamRanger is available online on Orms Direct: CamRanger Wireless Transmitter for Select Canon and Nikon DSLR Cameras In the next tutorials, I’ll be coving the finer focus control, focus stacking, HDR, as well as time-lapse, to name a few. In fact, I even composed the shot using my iPad, without looking through the viewfinder in my camera (or using liveview) once. I did 100% of the control in this shot on my iPad. So here’s the image I shot for this tutorial. I did some long exposure work a few nights ago, and ended up standing on almost the opposite side of a highway I was photographing, while I was controlling the camera from my iPad. The range on the wireless network that the CamRanger sends out is big as well. It’s a good, solid setup that I find to be incredibly reliable. So that’s it! Using this CamRanger is a piece of cake. How nuts is that? You can also double tap the screen to get a 100% zoom to make sure you’ve nailed the focus. Once you’ve got your settings dialled in, it’s time to pick the point you want to focus on, which is as easy as tapping on that point on the screen. Once you tap on the screen, the CamRanger takes control of the lens’ autofocus motor and makes the correct adjustments. The moment I have the camera creating small JPEG files, the transfer between the CamRanger and my iPad is significantly faster, as now the files being transferred are only 9MP. ![]() ![]() In my case, my 36MP D800 files take so long that it makes using the CamRanger an incredibly exhausting experience. The reason for this is that if you only shoot RAW, the camera is going to send full-res files to the CamRanger, which will increase the transfer time. This might not be something you do when you’re shooting without a CamRanger, but when you are, it would be a wise decision to create low resolution JPEGs along with your RAW files. Along with shooting in RAW (which you should always be doing), you can set your camera to shoot JPEGs as well. Something else you can change (and something I’d encourage you to change) is the quality setting. Something important to note is that you’ve got the ability to see a live feed directly from your camera using the live view button in the app. If you’d like to change one of the settings, you just tap on the setting, and the control panel will change and display the various settings you can change that variable to. Here you’ve got full control over everything you could want to control on your camera. This panel on the right is essentially the main control panel. ![]() So here’s what you should be presented with, more or less: Once you’ve got the app installed, just follow the instructions to get the CamRanger hooked up to your iPad. Once you plug the CamRanger into the USB port on your camera, you’ll need to download the CamRanger app from the App Store. The CamRanger connects to your camera via the USB port (the one you’d normally tether with). Over the next few weeks, I’ll be teaching you how to use the CamRanger. And when I say “fully”, I’m not kidding – you’ve got full control over the exposure controls, as well as shutter release control, HDR, time-lapse, and even fine focus control. The CamRanger allows you fully to control your camera from your iPad/iPhone, wirelessly. I’ve been playing with the CamRanger Wireless Transmitter for a few weeks now, and man, is this thing powerful. Tutorial and photos by Ett Venter, a Pretoria-based photographer. Tutorial: Ett Venter shows you how to control your DSLR remotely using your iPhone or iPad and the CamRanger Wireless Transmitter.
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